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Selecting a Dress Shirt - Sizing and Fabrics
By PFadvisor@paulfredrick.com Copyright 2004, Paul Fredrick. Reprinted With Permission.
Although selecting a dress shirt can be a relatively simple task, there are still a number of options to consider when making your choice. This week we will discuss dress shirt sizing and fabrics. Next week's column will focus on collar styles, cuff styles, colors and patterns.
Most dress shirts are sized using a collar and sleeve measurement. For example, size "16/33" indicates a 16-inch collar and a 33-inch sleeve length. To determine your proper collar size, measure around your neck, keeping two fingers between the measuring tape and your neck. To measure sleeve length, measure the distance from where your spine meets the base of your neck to your shoulder seam. Then, with your elbow slightly bent, measure from shoulder seam to wrist. The sum of these two numbers is your sleeve length.
Dress shirts are made in three basic fits. Regular fit is cut generously for maximum comfort. Big & Tall shirts are tailored with 1 ¾" of additional length. Trim Fit (also referred to as athletic or slim) garments are tapered in the chest and waist a small amount to accommodate a more athletic build.
Once your proper size and fit is determined, it is time to choose a fabric. We strongly recommend 100% cotton dress shirts. Cotton breathes, while polyester does not. Cotton shirts will also provide greater comfort than blends. If you are not adept with an iron, and don't wish to incur the expense of professional laundering, "non-iron" 100% cotton dress shirts are now available in quite a few options. These shirts are treated with a patented formula allowing them to remain virtually without wrinkles while wearing. Care is simple. They can be washed and dried at home without the need for an iron.
There are a variety of 100% cotton fabrics to choose from:
· 140's broadcloth is our finest, most luxurious yarn. The higher thread count and resulting closeness of weave gives it a superior hand and remarkable luster.
· 100's two-ply broadcloth is also considered a luxury yarn. Exceptional softness and durability (due to its two-ply yarn) are primary features.
· 80's pinpoint has a more pronounced weave than broadcloth fabric, thus a slightly less dressy appearance. It is also a two-ply thread for added durability.
· 50's broadcloth, woven of single-ply thread, is a lightweight and durable cotton fabric.
· Non-iron cotton dress shirts are available in pinpoint oxford or broadcloth options. Deemed "Easy-Care" by many, they are machine-washable and ready-to-wear out of the dryer.
If you have any additional questions, please email us at PFadvisor@paulfredrick.com Next week we will begin a two-part discussion on selecting the dress shirt that is right for you.
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