Last week we began our discussion of selecting a dress shirt, focusing on fabric and fit. This week we concentrate on collar styles, as well as cuff and color options.

Choosing the appropriate collar style is extremely important. There are four basic types: straight, spread, tab and buttondown. Straight collars are generally conservative and available in traditional (stitched a ¼" from edge of collar) and European (edge-stitched) versions. A safe choice with any basic dress shirt, this collar style is a traditional favorite and complements almost any facial structure.

Spread collars are cut at a sharper angle, leaving more fabric showing at the top of the shirt placket. The Windsor spread collar has a straight edge, while the varsity spread is cut with a slight arc. Spread collars are available in most basic dress shirts, but are particularly appropriate in contrasting collar and cuff dress shirts (a colored or patterned shirt with a white collar and cuff) because of their dressier nature.

Tab collars resemble straight collars in cut, but the two sides of the collar are held together by two small pieces of fabric, each with one side of a snap tab or a button. When snapped, it allows the points of the collar to lie flat on the body of the shirt, providing a very neat and precise look.

The buttondown collar is perhaps the most popular and versatile collar style available. Less formal than other collar styles, it is still appropriate for a wide variety of business and business casual settings. A buttondown dress shirt can easily be worn with or without a necktie.

Selecting a collar style is largely a matter of personal taste. There are a few things, however, to consider. Your collar should counterbalance your facial structure. If you are tall and lean with a thin face, a straight collar will further accentuate those features. To balance out these physical features, a spread collar would be the optimal choice. Conversely, a spread collar will accentuate a round face, while a straight collar provides more balance.

While the majority of men favor button (barrel) cuffs, French cuffs add refinement to any dress shirt. In addition, French cuffs allow a man to express some individuality through his selection of cufflinks. Elegant contrasting white collar and white French cuffs are popular dress shirt options as well.

In addition to basic blue and white, dress shirts are available in a wide variety of options. We are most pleased to report to you that color and pattern are once again driving forces in men's dress shirts. The judicious use of color is an excellent way to add some life to your business wardrobe. Gingham, glen plaid, stripe and check patterns are also effective options.

Next week, we will focus on how to select (and tie) complementary neckwear.

If you have any additional questions, please email us at PFadvisor@paulfredrick.com Next week we will begin a two-part discussion on selecting the dress shirt that is right for you.

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