Today's sportcoat is a necessary component of every man's wardrobe. Equally appropriate with a pair of khakis and a buttondown pinpoint oxford shirt, trousers and a dress knit or a French cuff dress shirt and necktie; the modern sportcoat is exceptionally versatile. Available in an infinite number of fabrication, color and pattern combinations, this week's discussion focuses on what works best for you. Next week we will concentrate on which styles and constructions match the other elements of your wardrobe.

Wool is the traditional sportcoat fabric. Since wool fabric is available in many weights, you can wear wool for a good part of the year (except in the warmer climates). Certainly wool is the fabric of choice for fall and winter seasons. Silk, a lighter weight material than wool, has recently become an increasingly popular fabric. Both wool/silk blends and 100% silk fabrications are warm weather options. Linen is a popular summer fabric choice.

A broad variety of patterns are available this year. Since sportcoats are expensive and you would like to wear one for several years, you should start your collection with fairly conservative patterns. There are a number of subtle herringbones and basket weaves available this season, as well as some timeless glen plaids and hounds tooth patterns. The traditional and versatile blue or black blazer, of course, is always a viable option that will last for many seasons.

Sportcoats are available in two and three button models. Your choice should reflect both your personal taste and your body type. Three button models tend to create a longer line, which is helpful if you are short in stature. However, this also tends to accentuate the height of a taller man. Stick with two or three button models since other models tend to go in and out of style rather quickly.

Sportcoats are available in vented and unvented models. (A vent is a slit in a garment in the lower portion of the seam). Vented sportcoats are either side vented (most popular in Europe) or single vented in the back, which is a traditionally more American design. Ventless jackets have become more popular in the past several years. They are the most flattering model, but less practical, as it can be more difficult to access your trouser pockets.

Finally, we would like to add a word about sizing. Sportcoats should be cut a bit fuller than a suit jacket to allow room for a sweater to be worn under the jacket. Sportcoats are sized similar to suits, with short, regular, long and extra-long fits. As a rule of thumb, short sizes will work for men 5'7" and under. Regular sizes are generally appropriate for men between 5'8" and 6'. If you are between 6' and 6'3", you will want to select a long, while extra-long will generally work for those over 6'3".

If you have any additional questions, please email us at PFadvisor@paulfredrick.com.

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